{"id":2827,"date":"2015-12-04T11:31:02","date_gmt":"2015-12-04T11:31:02","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/october-2015.testing.pm\/latest\/?page_id=2827"},"modified":"2021-03-16T13:19:29","modified_gmt":"2021-03-16T13:19:29","slug":"october-builds-brands","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/www.october.co.uk\/latest\/october-builds-brands\/","title":{"rendered":"October builds brands"},"content":{"rendered":"

THE BRUTAL TRUTH ABOUT BUILDING A FASHION BRAND<\/strong><\/h1>\n

the story they won\u2019t tell you.<\/h1>\n

I say \u2018truth\u2019 but it is of course just my truth; the sideways glance of a grey bearded stout booted baldy, with a love of dangerous 1950\u2019s motoring, the loud and aggressive tweed, and a double stitched reinforced gusset.<\/p>\n

But after nearly 30 years in the industry, almost solely working with brands, I may have scooped the occasional pearl from the countless, hopeless, washed up oysters. I may have learnt something true. So if you\u2019re not too busy instagramming a photograph of your dinner, not too exhausted by your addition of the words \u2018awesome\u2019 \u2018sik\u2019 and \u2018dope\u2019 to a picture of a snap back, or hiking up an absolute mountain of selfies, please, feel free to pull up a chair. My name is Paul Stephenson, and I would like to tell you a story.<\/p>\n

Story\u2026<\/strong><\/h3>\n

\u2026.because that is I feel, the beating heart of a brand. If I ask a new fashion label what their story is, a common reply might be \u2018Well, it\u2019s kind of like that thing where, we\u2019re sort of aiming at cool people, and pretty much doing some cool stuff that like, they\u2019ll kind of like, a lot\u2026you know what I\u2019m saying\u2019<\/p>\n

Sadly Jazz (we\u2019ll call the brand owner Jazz, because it\u2019s not his real name but kinda makes him sound like, kinda cool)\u2026sadly Jazz, no I don\u2019t know what you\u2019re saying, because you haven\u2019t actually bloody said anything.<\/p>\n

Forget about whether you want to twin a drop crotch chino with a crushed velvet trilby for a minute, and STOP \u2014 what are you trying to say?<\/p>\n

He could have said perhaps, that his brand was about creating awareness around issues which concern him in his environment\u2026.he may for example, and it\u2019s just an example, want to encourage the re-instatement of old working class values, the pride of the honest labourers and their families, and community \u2014 he may even want in a deep down Disney moment, to bring people together\u2026.it doesn\u2019t matter. What matters is that he can articulate what he cares about, and have a desire to communicate that story with a particular group of people, using good graphic design which dare we say, is meant to be intellect made visible<\/strong>. This means I\u2019m sad to report, that another picture of an anchor, a snake, or if you\u2019re a real free thinker perhaps a sugar skull, might not be quite enough to cause a stir\u2026\u2019I\u2019ve always had this thing about dragons\u2019 may not be sufficient.<\/p>\n

Oh, and a little humble suggestion\/tip here; before you get your pencil case out and start drawing what this all looks like, with your tongue poking out the side of your mouth\u2026write the story down –\u00a0 maybe six things that we really care about that form a collection, and then design a graphic to go with each one \u2014 that way when it\u2019s being PR\u2019d at a later date you can just refer to your original thoughts to explain your brand in a meaningful way, rather than it shaking down into an \u2018About Us\u2019 page that waffles on about \u2018being yourself\u2019, \u2018seizing the moment\u2019\u00a0 \u2018shooting for the stars\u2019 and a load of old nonsense we\u2019ve heard a thousand times before. When you get that meeting with Selfridges and they ask what your brand is about, what each design is about\u2026you\u2019ll have an intelligent answer, rather than an urge to shuffle awkwardly and a sudden fascination with your shoes. Say something new perhaps, \u2018this brand is about social change!\u2019\u2026\u2019the resurgence of old values\u2019\u2026or \u2019relationship breakdown\u2019 \u2014 having seen it all before they might be bored, so freak them out.<\/p>\n

So for me, lone voice in the wilderness and generally mad back woodsman, brand story is important \u2014 if you don\u2019t understand yourself, how can you expect anyone else to understand you? And of course, we\u2019re hoping to be understood by our\u2026<\/p>\n

Customer\u2026<\/strong><\/h3>\n

\u2026otherwise known as who the hell I\u2019m hoping to tell my story to?<\/p>\n

18-30 year olds with an over developed interest in trainers is not an answer to this question. That narrows our market down to a few billion people, their friends, their friend\u2019s dogs, and some bloke we met in a pub, called Nigel. So what might be an example of a targeted group?<\/p>\n

Let\u2019s go back to Dave (that\u2019s Jazz\u2019s real name) \u2014 he wants to reaffirm what he considers to be the loss of the working person\u2019s values – and where might we find that particular hard working demographic that may resonate with this sentiment? Just a wild guess, but a football stadium might be a good start. We know where 40,000 of our potential tribe might be on a Saturday afternoon, all neatly locked up in a confined space for at least 90 minutes, with a short break for a life threatening meat pie.<\/p>\n

You know your story (beautifully, graphically told, through the magic of screen print), you know where your customer is, and so in this particular case we have\u2026<\/p>\n

AN AFFORDABLE MARKETING CHANNEL BETWEEN STORY AND CUSTOMER<\/strong><\/h1>\n

This is the bridge, that connects us, to them\u2026and in this model it\u2019s called a football fanzine, which is cheap advertising, and one of many ways to talk to this particular group. You can have the best story in the world, you can know your customer, but if they are a Vogue reader somewhere amongst 10 grand a page advertising\u2026we will be the greatest story, that\u2019s never heard.<\/p>\n

So, story, targeted customer, and a financially sustainable channel between the two – just put the ball down and pull the trigger right? Well nearly, but the whistle hasn\u2019t been blown just yet, just spit and rearrange your gentleman\u2019s parts for a moment, because we also need\u2026<\/p>\n

Signature\u2026<\/strong><\/h3>\n

\u2026of the graphic variety. Again, perhaps write this down. Whether they have story may be debateable, but Franklin and Marshall are unlikely to do anything unless it looks Vintage, Collegiate, and American, in the main, is that a fair point? So what do you want your signature to be Dave? Do your graphics all need to look vintage, does they need to have a whiff of the \u2018Made in England\u2019 must they feel revolutionary, or anarchic?<\/p>\n

If we want people to look across a crowded bar and think \u2018I can\u2019t quite make that print out, but from here, I\u2019d say it was one of Dave\u2019s\u2019\u2026then we need signature. This is the distinctive handwriting of our story<\/strong>, and we will be brutal. If the design doesn\u2019t fit our signature criteria, we will bin it.<\/p>\n

Story, signature, customer, marketing channel\u2026that\u2019s it right?<\/p>\n

There is more, so if you feeling sleepy, pop off for a milky drink and forty winks. When you get back we\u2019ll talk about\u2026<\/p>\n

Looking like a brand.<\/strong><\/h3>\n

Your T shirt prints or embroideries are only a vehicle to tell the story. If that is all we have we\u2019re not a proper brand, we\u2019re a \u2018T-shirt brand\u2019 and so merely qualify for the inside back page of a dodgy lads mag. Imagine if you will, a magazine page in your head that features your brand. It will look like either a beautifully moody shot of some gorgeous bastard looking into the middle distance while riding an old English motorcycle, or be a bunch of product. If it\u2019s the latter, it\u2019ll just be a few T prints, but then a lovely high definition badged polo, a brand carrying sweat, a tone on tone embroidered taffeta windbreaker, a little denim, a military jacket, and in the bottom corner a watch and a pair of shoes (which never actually went into production, or were a \u2018limited edition that immediately sold out\u2019 right? (This game is hard enough\u2026sometimes, we lie and stuff a pair of socks down our pants, to look bigger than we are).<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Now we can make all this stuff, not a problem, but with minimums you\u2019ll financially be dropping 5 big ones here, 8 big ones there, and generally having a nervous breakdown and popping over to your Mum\u2019s in tears. The trick is to find genuinely retailable off the shelf product, which can be used in really small quantities, re-labelled, buffed up, and pieced together to form a coherent collection. It can be done. If we had time, I\u2019d tell you the story of the big order of re-badged Melton wool military issue Hong Kong police jackets, \u00a39.50 from the local Army and Navy store, ending up at a RRP of \u00a3249.00 and one of our finer strokes\u2026shall we\u2019ll call it up-cycling?<\/p>\n

One last thing before we attempt to fire up the rocket, and wonder why the massive after burn is the size of a small fart.<\/p>\n

Photography.<\/strong><\/h3>\n

It would be standard in our meetings with fashion labels for us to ask, \u2018Which brands would you aspire to be\u2019\u2026.and the conversation can then go something like this\u2026<\/p>\n

\u2018Sik Silk man, they\u2019re massive, quality\u2026word, dope, and peace, having it\u2026in the city\u2019<\/p>\n

\u2018Why are they so good?\u2019<\/p>\n

\u2018Well, because they just are\u2026they\u2019re er\u2026sik\u2019<\/p>\n

\u2018OK – Just out of interest, where do you go on holiday?\u2019<\/p>\n

\u2018We go to the Island man, Ibiza, whistle, glow stick, banging, large\u2026up for it\u2026you know the score\u2019<\/p>\n

\u2018And also, do you like tattoos?\u2019<\/p>\n

\u2018Fuck yeah, I love my sleeves man, and my Mum\u2019s lending me the money to have a baddass sugar skull\u2019<\/p>\n

\u2018On your badass?\u2019<\/p>\n

\u2018For real\u2019<\/p>\n

So what we have is some lovely photography, on the Island, using nicely tattooed models, possibly throw in a stick on beard, to such a massive extent that when you receive your product in the post, which amounts to a vest, with a palm tree on it, you\u2019re convinced it is\u2026.sik.<\/p>\n

Are people narcissistic? Using models that look like them, show your target market your product, beautifully photographed in their favourite \u2018hang outs\u2019 and hey smoke and mirrors presto,\u2026job done.<\/p>\n

A great photographer can make the ugly gorgeous, and the gorgeous ugly\u2026if in doubt, contact The Magic Photography Company (turd polishers to the elite).<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Checklist: STORY, CUSTOMER, SIGNATURE, LOOKING LIKE A BRAND, PHOTOGRAPHY\u2026IS THAT IT?<\/strong><\/h1>\n

Well almost, but picture the scene \u2014 a small boat fully loaded with all the above, crewed by laughing, clean limbed, stripy shirted brand carrying hopefuls, on a big blue shimmering sea\u2026what could possibly go wrong? Hold on a minute. Does anyone know where we\u2019re going, where are we going to sell our most gorgeous of brands?<\/p>\n

WARNING \u2014 the next bit gets quite depressing. Keep going, there can be a fluffy ending.<\/p>\n

WHERE ARE WE GOING TO SELL?<\/strong><\/h1>\n

The Internet<\/strong><\/h3>\n

The most common answer. And why not. Print a few T-shirts, take a few pics, drop it on a ready-made website template, and if you believe what some might tell you (Shopify), it\u2019s then time to pop off to the Maserati garage and put a down payment on something loud.<\/p>\n

Is that true? Well sadly no. It is in fact the most enormous load of bollocks since Barry Big Balls inflated his scrotum with a tractor pump\u2026in our opinion.<\/p>\n

We know that if you\u2019re top of page 1 you get all the traffic. If you\u2019re 2nd<\/sup> you get less than half of Number 1\u2026come in at 3 or 4 and you\u2019re on the slide, 10, 11, or 12 and you\u2019re in the toilet, with the lights off. Can we think of 100 brands that have been around forever, online for years, and do I often hear of labels that are spending fifty grand a month on internet marketing? Er, yes. Will you ever beat them to a reasonably top slot\u2026perhaps not? Selling effectively online, could be a five year job\u2026.<\/p>\n

Still, we do have to have a site, not for sales at first, but for brand building.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Social Media<\/strong><\/h3>\n

Not a problem we shout, hang the website, I\u2019m an absolute wizard on the old social, with a steady queue of loyal followers who will stampede to buy\u2026ping, hurray, someone else likes me. Which is nice, it\u2019s great to be popular, but do we see a relationship between social and sales? Honestly, no. It\u2019s not uncommon for us to place product on celebrities with a 12.2 million following, and then see a brand re-order our minimum run of 24 pieces \u2014 everyone is busy \u2018liking\u2019\u2026and not so busy buying\u2026<\/p>\n

Still, we do have to have Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter, not for sales at first, but for brand building.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Wholesale<\/strong><\/h3>\n

Stuff you then. If I\u2019m not going to sell millions online, I\u2019ll sell to shops. They must be looking for new brands right? Let\u2019s have a think \u2014 say you and I have six shops, along the South cost, and let\u2019s imagine we\u2019re a lad\u2019s wear retailer, for no particular reason. So we go to a trade show and split up \u2014 you go off in search of denim, I\u2019m in charge of buying knitwear, and we meet at the end of the day.<\/p>\n

\u2018I\u2019ve played safe\u2019 you say \u2018And gone for the Edwin jeans \u2014 they shift, right?\u2019<\/p>\n

\u2018Nice work\u2019 I reply, \u2018But I\u2019ve found this really amazing new brand called Hang Dang Knitwear, see how it shimmers in the moonlight, isn\u2019t it lovely?\u2019<\/p>\n

Now you may entirely agree with the great quality, but you are also in that moment entitled to give me a Guinness book of Records kicking . I\u2019ve spent 8 grand on a completely unheard of brand \u2014 why didn\u2019t I play safe and buy a little John Smedley, we know that works!!?\u2019<\/p>\n

Independent retailers are unlikely to buy new brands, mainly because they\u2019re not insane \u2014 why should they risk it in these scary times? And Selfridges and Harvey Nick\u2019s won\u2019t buy it with no Independent track record, and a full on range of product.<\/p>\n

The wholesale road means very tight margins; at some point having to manufacture large quantities to improve that margin; sitting on large stock; half of that stock either not selling through or going into sale, flogging it off at a time when you\u2019re trying to showcase your ace new range and perhaps de-valuing that in the process. If that wasn\u2019t true, there would be no TK Maxx.<\/p>\n

Still, we do have half a dozen retail accounts, not for sales at first, not even for great profit later, but for brand building.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Retail.<\/strong><\/h3>\n

What? Our own retail store? Madness\u2026or is it?<\/p>\n

To avoid sitting in a room listening to three blow dried SEO goons, all showing you a different path to internet glory and demanding cash; to avoid trying to wholesale your label to a high street retailer who is whispering about a 5 grand kick back (that doesn\u2019t actually happen, does it?) and then trying to return unsold stock on some trumped up technicality\u2026what about taking full control of the job, doing it yourself, and opening a store – old school?<\/p>\n

There is a decent range of fully retailable kit now available off the shelf. In small numbers<\/strong>, to create a nice T, hood, sweat, polo, jacket story. So we develop trims, labels, swing tickets, high def badges\u2026a range of graphic T-s and a nice brand carrying logo\u2026.and we begin to amass a little stock.<\/p>\n

We picture a space in our head, maybe even put some garment rails in the back bedroom and begin to fill them out with product\u2026let\u2019s walk in.<\/p>\n

On the left we have our screen printed T-shirt collection, re-labelled, swing ticketed, with a hem tab maybe; and then our polos with a nice high definition badge. Along the back wall, some brand carrying sweats (black on black gloss?), and then a few tone on tone embroidered bombers, and damn it, let\u2019s have a splash of denim. Did we have to have any of these manufactured with a 300 piece minimum at three grand a pop? No, we just did a couple of dozen of each, using lovely product.<\/p>\n

Plus, we did it vertically, straight out of a factory, straight into our store \u2014 most retailers would run over an orphaned rabbit to get a 3 x multiple mark-up\u2026play our cards right, and we can get a 5 multiple.<\/p>\n

But we need more product, while not wanting to start manufacturing bags, trainers and eyewear. What about a co-lab then? Let\u2019s carefully intersperse our core product with a lovely leather back-pack, made by a couple of nice lads, in England, who we get on well with. And a trainer, UK made again, just a few but it helps us out, it helps them out, and the same goes for this nice eye-wear co-operation we have going on. And all the while we were imagining what pictures we\u2019d have on the wall, what music we\u2019d play, the DJ\u2019s who would make this a destination shopping experience<\/strong>\u2026.we even know what coffee we\u2019re going to serve to our special customers.<\/p>\n

Hold on a minute. We\u2019ve got a shop.<\/p>\n

To answer the cynics:<\/p>\n

This is all going to cost a load of money. Well yes, some, but more than an effective online strategy? And at least the costs are fixed\u2026we know our rent and rates. If we don\u2019t have it, we\u2019ll crowd fund it \u2014 high interest levels yes, but no need to give away any equity. We have seen brands we work with raise 150K+\u2026more than enough to open a store. The equity issue is important, don\u2019t give it away too early, because after we\u2019ve operated for 2 years and shown decent profit, we\u2019ll go for an equity stake deal, ask for 4 million quid with a plan to open 8 stores, on a Tuesday, in six months\u2019 time \u2014 that\u2019s when we give up our 40%. It\u2019s not easy, we\u2019ve run stores, we know\u2026but it is a real plan.<\/p>\n

Mad? You might think so, in which case maybe go back to getting a semi every time someone likes your Facebook page.<\/p>\n

If you\u2019ve read this far, you\u2019re either serious, or been driven to it by Strictly Bore Me to Death on a Dance Floor, or are you watching I\u2019m A Talentless Egotistical Git Get Me Out Of Here?<\/p>\n

Either way, this is the attention we apply to trying to help build a real, long term, sustainable clothing brand, and a relationship. Simply saying \u2018Check out our awesome new snap backs\u2019 \u2018Hey, let\u2019s work\u2019 and \u2018We also print shopping bags\u2019 may not quite do the trick.<\/p>\n

Finally, Handy hint #1 \u2014 if there\u2019s a brand you admire. Don\u2019t rely on the gossip from an industry \u2018expert\u2019 who tells you they\u2019re \u2018smashing it\u2019 or \u2018having it away\u2019. Get their accounts from Company\u2019s House \u2014 if they\u2019re making decent profit 5 years down the line, do what they did. If they\u2019re not, and you might be amazed who is not, don\u2019t follow their road, unless you enjoy a nice cul de sac.<\/p>\n

Bottom line \u2014 it can be done, just, and with much thought \u2014 we wouldn\u2019t be here otherwise.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

THE BRUTAL TRUTH ABOUT BUILDING A FASHION BRAND the story they won\u2019t tell you. I say \u2018truth\u2019 but it is of course just my truth; the sideways glance of a grey bearded stout booted baldy, with a love of dangerous 1950\u2019s motoring, the loud and aggressive tweed, and a double stitched reinforced gusset. But after […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":2898,"parent":0,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"template-content-page2.php","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-2827","page","type-page","status-publish","has-post-thumbnail","hentry"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nOctober builds brands - October Textiles - Latest<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"October Builds brands, the brutal truth about building a fashion brand.\u00a0the story they won\u2019t tell you. 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