{"id":2322,"date":"2013-11-14T11:07:33","date_gmt":"2013-11-14T11:07:33","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.october.co.uk\/latest\/?p=2322"},"modified":"2016-03-11T10:53:08","modified_gmt":"2016-03-11T10:53:08","slug":"fashion-blog-fashion-rider","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.october.co.uk\/latest\/2013\/11\/14\/fashion-blog-fashion-rider\/","title":{"rendered":"October blog for fashion blog Fashion Rider&#8230;"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Fashion Rider&#8230; One of the UK\u2019s leading creative resources <a href=\"http:\/\/www.fashionrider.com\">http:\/\/www.fashionrider.com<\/a><\/p>\n<p>Starting a collection and finding a decent textile printer are two things that any designer would like to go hand in hand, and technically they do. It&#8217;s simple \u2014 you design the clothes, take the designs to a textile printer, and the jobs done! The problem arises when you try to find a professional and good printer, which you can trust with your designs, who will get you what you want.<\/p>\n<p>With that in mind, you need to know exactly what you should look out for, and know what a textile printer will be expecting of you too&#8230; So Paul Stephenson from www.october.co.uk has some top tips on what you should be doing before you even consider going to see a textile printer!<\/p>\n<p><strong>What are the worst mistakes you\u2019ve seen a designer make?<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>I guess the answer for this question has to be technical; if that doesn\u2019t send you into an immediate coma, bewildered by tiffs, giffs, mesh counts, screen tensions, and the wiring diagram from the Hubble telescope.<\/p>\n<p>If I\u2019m right, perhaps the biggest mistake is to get your crushed velvet purple hat on, and rocket full speed into a bunch of finished designs. It can take so long you\u2019ll have grown a beard in the back bedroom, only to be told by your chosen supplier \u2018I\u2019m Dave the printer, not Paul Bloody Daniels, it can\u2019t be done\u2019.<\/p>\n<p>So, speak to your printer from the outset, almost when you first have that dreamy golden idea of owning your own brand. Post your fag packet designs and photos from a toilet door, and your printer can say, \u2018Yes, I like it, but those two lines are too close together, they\u2019ll fill in when they print; why don\u2019t you have more negative space in this design to use less ink and improve the texture; eight colours? Why? You can use two, get a much punchier and more graphic result, and god forbid make more profit\u2019&#8230;.you get the idea.<\/p>\n<p><strong>What level should a designer be at before they speak to a printer?<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Now this very much depends on the printer. If you want a cheap price, you want all your artwork nicely in Photoshop or Illustrator, in layers, saved at the correct size, with pantone references and a clear knowledge of whether you want water based, solvent based or discharge inks, or even DTG or sublimation (and you\u2019ll know that the latter requires a polyester content in your garment). The artwork will have been designed to be sure that any tonal work is not too fine, and there is a touch of clip on any colours where you think registration will be an issue, amongst many other considerations. You will have purchased your stock, checked it for any imperfections, split it into the relevant designs required, and couriered it into your print shop. You will have bought additional garments to allow a 5% tolerance for print mistakes. Pdf\u2018s will have been created of course, showing exact print positions on a variety of garment sizes. El Cheapo Printo will then collate all this, press go, and if there are any problems refer you back to your initial spec and say \u2018Tough shit, that\u2019s what you asked for\u2019<\/p>\n<p>Should you choose to use a more expensive printer, a collaborator who will work with you on the range and want its success as much as you do, then you need to be at the level referred to in question one, where Jesus has appeared at the end of your bed and told you to start your own clothing brand \u2014 the rest you can understand about as much sub atomic Physics or why Hollyoaks is allowed to exist&#8230;your printer will help.<\/p>\n<p><strong>What\u2019s the best advice you can give to someone starting a new collection?<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Don\u2019t. I get twenty to thirty enquiries a day from people saying \u2018I don\u2019t know if anyone\u2019s said this to you before, but I\u2019m thinking of starting my own clothing brand\u2019&#8230;it has been so for the last twenty five years. Of those many hundreds of thousands, very few will survive.<\/p>\n<p>If that hasn\u2019t put you off, you\u2019ve passed the first stage of the trials young Padawan, and you\u2019re ready for some honest advice.<\/p>\n<p>Firstly, do not do this because you \u2018want\u2019 to; it\u2019s not nearly enough \u2014 only proceed because you \u2018have\u2019 to, because you can think of nothing else, and if you don\u2019t do it, you\u2019ll go mad, start walking backwards and buy a house in Belgium.<\/p>\n<p>Secondly, have a back story. At the risk of sounding like a raving Ponsonby, good graphic design is supposed to be \u2018intellect made visible,\u2019 a two dimensional expression of that which you hold most dear. What do you care about, who do you love, hate, and want to throw cakes at&#8230;and how can you visually represent your personality? To do this, perhaps all your designs need criteria to which they adhere \u2014 for example, a sense of heritage, or Englishness, or a point of contradiction, something political, whatever, but if they all have it in a coherent way it\u2019ll pull the designs together, and along with the right print techniques, make the collection look obviously yours.<br \/>\nAnd by back story I don\u2019t mean an \u2018about us\u2019 page that talks about seizing the moment, living for the day or saving the penguins&#8230;we need to believe you.<\/p>\n<p>Thirdly \u2014 join up the dots. Know who you are, who your customer is, and how you\u2019re going to reach them. If you think your customer is a Vogue reader, but don\u2019t have ten grand a month to advertise, you\u2019re going to have the best story that no one\u2019s ever read. But if you\u2019re a lad brand, and know where 40,000 of your customers are every Saturday afternoon, and hello, football fanzines are cheap to advertise in, 3-0, you win. This is who we are, that\u2019s where they are, and we can afford to talk to them.<\/p>\n<p>Fourthly, and then I\u2019ll shut up because there\u2019s loads more&#8230;TIME. Facebook, Twitter, web sites and knowing a bloke who lives near Liam Gallagher\u2019s Granny, won\u2019t do it. It takes bloody years, so if you haven\u2019t got a Lambo and a big house in Crouch End by year two, don\u2019t be sad \u2014 building a brand is a lifetime\u2019s work, keep the faith, say your prayers, and in the end the circle will turn, I promise x<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Starting a collection and finding a decent textile printer are two things that any designer would like to go hand in hand, and technically they do<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":3013,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[8,9,24],"tags":[537,555,618,1249,1402],"class_list":["post-2322","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-all","category-articles-misc","category-a-screen-printers-diary","tag-fashion-design","tag-fashion-printing-uk","tag-garment-design","tag-screen-printing-uk","tag-t-shirt-printing-techniques"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v23.1 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Fashion Rider - October tips for fashion design<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Fashion Rider. 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